pipe bending

Bending of bars and pipes and cutting with a cutter

Bending of bars and pipes

 
Flat materials, up to 5 mm thick, can be cooled bend them well when they are previously clamped in mangels. Bending can be done under a small, so to speak, sharp angle. When bending thicker materials at the bending point cracking or crushing of the material occurs.
 
Bendability depends on the material itself. Steel is heavier bends, while soft aluminum can be bent by hand. If we want to avoid the breakage that occurs when bending or when leveling, it is necessary that the material beforehand we soften. For example, when making a wire fence, usea soft wire is attached. Semi-hard wire is commercially available which should be softened before use. Previously reels put the wires on a layer of charcoal and cover them again from above with charcoal and then light the charcoal. After combustion and cooling the charcoal, the coil of wire becomes pliable and halfsuitable for knitting.
 
If we want to bend some material in a straight line corner, it is necessary to tighten it well in the mangels between the angle steel insert and then with locksmith's checksI will bend. Bending can also be done using some means which is not intended for bending. In this case we won't hammer the material we intended for bending than this auxiliary object. First we hit a few times above the place of the folding edge so that the piece. "went" to determined direction and arc, and then we hit the end of the object which is far from the edge of the pass, and we do it with less force bending. Angled steel insert helps in bending, au at the same time it protects mengele.
 
Before bending the material in the shape of letters L, U or Z bywe need to think carefully about the sequence beforehand bending. They can be bent in mangels and pieces that seem inflexible to us, we should keep in mind principle: "Think more to be less angry".
 
It is not out of place to mark it with steam when bending the place of the folding edge (especially on sheet metal). In that manner we can follow with our eyes whether we bend in the desired place, and on the other hand, steaming itself helps us bend.
 
A special case of bending is the formation of a pipe in the shape port. When bending pipes with thin walls, in unodue to the excessive arc of bending, the walls are crushed, and on with the outer arch, the walls crack or flatten pipes.
 
If the diameter of the outer wall of the pipe is less than double of the inner diameter of the pipe, bending can be done »puwith the "pipe". The material used to fill the tube is fine clean sand. Close one end of the pipe well, and close it at the other endfill the tube with sand and then close this end as well with a long wooden plug. The sand prevents the pipes from indenting at the point of bending (when flattening the circumference of the pipe section remains the same, but the cross-sectional area decreases). If the pipe filled with sand, it does not allow this narrowing, because the pipe has no possibility to "turn" in another direction.
 
Another material for filling the pipe is a steel spiral (Figure 1). It means only a long spring-spiral, which fits into the tube. The use of a spiral is justified only if we bend a number of pipes of the same diameter. Beforeit is necessary, not out of the question, to coat the spring with oil because it is otherwise we won't pull it out of the bent tube easily. We will not pull the spring, it should be pulled out by turning in the opposite direction of the thread. U bending can also help us if we place the bending heat the pipes, and in such a state we bend them with levers at the ends of the pipe.
 
steel spiral
PICTURE 1
 
Finally, one piece of advice! For bending pipes of external diameternicks greater than 15 mm should seek the help of a qualified person faces.

 

Cutting off with a cutter

 
The cutting tools are a flat cutter and a hammer. It is very important support the metal piece prepared for cutting, in place cutting, so that it does not move and bend during work. The cutting site should be deeply steamed, and then the cutter keep perpendicular to the surface of the sheet. In the beginning, we perform weaker blows on the cutter and then stronger blows that cut through the metal. If the material is wider than the cutter, we start cutting with both ends alternately going towards the middle. If we are cutting metal bars, let's first mark the place of cutting the bar, that's what we're going to do is to cut by turning, and after that we cut.
 
The sheet metal clamped in vises is cut so that the line intersectsit should be 1-2 mm above the mengel jaw and parallel to to them. We start the cutting from one end, so that the cutter blade runs horizontally along the cutting line. Thatwhen working, the cutter should be held at a sharp angle towards sheet metal (picture 2).
 
cutting off with a cutterPICTURE 2
 
If it is necessary to cut a larger circular plate on the sheet, previously put the sheet on a flat surface and dotted lines, we cut with a cutter in a circle on the cutting line. After that, we place the sheet on the mat so that the cutting line is straight be a centimeter or two above the table and next to the coaster, but not at all on the coaster. Now we can already hit the pointed part hammer to break off the circular plate, turning it occasionally sheet and hitting with a hammer always next to the washer (picture 3).
 
cutting a circular plate
PICTURE 3

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